Surfing life isn’t as smooth a ride as catching a four foot wave, then standing up and reveling in the fact that you rode a wave; that reveling is like saying you’re a cowboy after taking a carnival horse ride.
Life equated to surfing, you’re out there with the big boys, monster swells coming in, your bobbing up and down waiting for that right wave to come along; for me, it was the Ninth wave, I would count the waves and hit it hard.
You start to paddle into the swell, just before the swell hits you, it’s starts to build behind you, you feel like a mouse, the wave is the cat. If you don’t get moving, you know you’re going to get eaten alive.
You stand to your feet, no foam yet, just a building mountain of water behind you; but that mountain just keeps building. You ride a little further down the face, you hear it breaking, you look back, there’s a four story wall of water crashing down; chasing you like that cat chasing the mouse, you feel so small and meaningless to that wave.
You never curse and cuss, but you finally know the meaning of an “Oh Shit Moment!” There’s no turning back, you have to ride this monster wave, you have to, getting weak now can kill you, if you fall and don’t drown, you will be pounded into some of the nastiest, razor sharp submerged rocks that you never knew belonged on this earth; in surfing, there is no Out of Sight, Out of Mind thoughts of getting through the day.
At this point, your nothing but a human ball of adrenaline, the only thoughts you have is that you have to do everything right if your going to survive the ride, all the thoughts and actions the land lovers are having at this moment are meaningless, more like insignificant at best; it’s not the ride of your life, your on the ride for your life. No politics, no fads, no bandwagon issues, while riding down the face of that four story wave, you know if you start thinking of such trivial thoughts; you know the coastguard will be looking for your waterlogged body, if the sharks didn’t get you first.
The ride is not over, but you can see that it’s near, the whitewater is chasing you, blowing mist out the shrinking tube, you’re doing fifty miles an hour when you hit the chop, bone pounding, exhaustion hits your nerves, you’re spent, but the pounding is relentless, then you see it; that now seemingly mundane spot, at what you see as the lazy end of the wave; it’s safe now, you kick out. Up and over, you’re on the back side of the wave, you collapse onto your board, all you can do is breathe, then aim the tip of your board towards the shore.
In today’s world, there are those that are afraid to surf the small waves of life, but they follow the issues of the day, they’re a part of a group no matter how meaningless their part is, and if things get rough; they simply kick out becoming anonymous to the world.
They never look beyond the issue, they never look deeper than the issue, they never look deeper into the people they trust or vote for, they’re simply along for the ride, no wonder they won’t play with the big boys; they know their fear of life that they keep so silent will be seen. They just want to follow the crowd, get lost in the crowd so that they can belong to something, without the experience or expense of life.
Making a choice to surf something bigger than twenty feet, it takes determination, skill, and a strong respect for life; without those factors, you can lose your life. Following without understanding, being someone your not, just being a part of the crowd so that you can fit in to something; it’s proven daily, that anyone can do that. Sometimes, if you honestly respect life, you’ve gotta just paddle out and . . . ride, that is if you want to really live life for the better.
If you’re a part of the following crowd, you’re simply an onlooker.