Just surf, or, Surf for Life!
Words of a surfer: Stress is Poison! Taj Burrow, he was talking about what is important in his life, and winning contest; as well as getting older.
From this old surfer (Me), if you want to prove your worth, survive the big waves with respect and dignity to life and the wave, otherwise; just surf. Never paddle out with attitude, because mother nature will give you more attitude back than you will ever have the guts to handle, and she will do it without breaking a sweat. Yes, stress is poison.
In the living of life, that is what people are doing, if life were a wave, they would just be surfing, catching only small rideable waves so they don’t get hurt, never pushing the limit to be better; so, they just surf. And as in life, they are stressing over the small stuff, but wait till the big stuff hits the shoreline of life.
Henry Ford, Albert Einstein, Harley & Davidson, Martin Luther King, Henry David Thoreau, Benjamin Franklin, George Washington, Duke Kahanamoku and Greg Noll; they all pushed the envelope for the betterment of others, through all the good they pushed for themselves. In one way or another, they were sharing their wealth with society, quite a difference from the people of today; for the people above, it wasn’t all about the dollar.
For most people today, we stress over the dollar so much that for many, it never matters if someone starves or freezes to death as long as the dollar is kept. The same holds true for spouses, how many divorces are the cause of money? How many relationships are started and ended because of money? All as opposed to the love of life, or the life of another; oh to think of all that stress.
The point is, is that the people above, they weren’t just riding an innocuous life wave, they were the force behind a fertile wave that in very useful ways; fed a nation the quality of life that is taken for granted today. But what have we as a society learned or retained from our efforts or our history? More importantly, what are we passing on; or leaving behind.
It may be hard for a lot of people to wrap their mind around this, but if our life wave went flat today, this minute, smooth to the sandy shore, what would society’s recent historic value to mankind be?
Computer technology: that has done some good, but the corrupt of society has also used the technology to go deeper underground.
Medications: that are filled with more side effects than they are worth.
Medical treatments: that are some or often times questionable.
Religion: with preachers that confuse the issues and sell sell sell their goods while bilking money from people that need it; every preacher needs his own jet and book deal.
Terrorism: from inside and outside our country, why, are we that in love with murder and a lack of reality?
Stability: don’t want to take the time to understand life, then take the time to fall, just don’t go blaming God for your own ignorance in life.
Drugs: What can you say, scramble some eggs.
Alcohol: scramble some more eggs.
Gender confusion: What can a person say without offending somebody, if that’s the case, there must be something wrong; you decide.
Scams: more than you care to know, and by people no one would even question.
Selfishness: It’s a me mine I not you world.
Politicians or politics: No comment worth leaving here, but check out the Clinton Cronicals, just saying.
Neglect: of what or everything, or whatever by choice.
Needles laws: because we’re too non caring to be decent?
Shoddy entertainment and entertainers: popularity can be a bummer at times, can’t it.
Neighborless neighborhoods: we all should know our neighbors, if we did, people would no longer have a need to talk scuttlebutt about their neighbors.
A bazillion societal one-way life streets: everyone has been on them when dealing with people, and sometimes daily.
Oh sure, there is some good out there, thank God for that, look at the good out there as a tool for needed comparison, but in reality; how many today can’t relate to something in the list above?
See surfing the small life waves, that’s just surfing, it’s staying in our comfort zones. By doing so, we also avoid the real meaning of life, the above list, it’s not a “Normal” I want to be a part of; and I don’t want that brand of “Normal” to be a part of me. Guess that’s why I always went for the big waves, they had a way of challenging me to be better; and to appreciate life a whole lot more when without breaking a sweat . . . Mother Nature put me in me in my place.